PHO' SAIGON, PUERTO PRINCESA CITY, PALAWAN

Pho' Saigon, Puerto Princesa City, Palawan. (Photo by LDocena)

In the 1970's the province of Palawan began receiving surprise visitors arriving on its shores aboard crude, dilapidated wooden boats after weeks of crossing the South China Sea, often without adequate provisions and accommodations. These visitors came from South Vietnam and have fled their country to escape a  war that was going on there at that time. They had fled in haste in the dead of night, intending to seek asylum in the Philippines, or any other country they might happen to land on and was willing to accept them. Later as their number increased in the province,  a refugee camp was set up beside the Puerto Princesa International Airport runway to accommodate them.

Slowly they began to try to integrate themselves with the people of Puerto Princesa, joining various activities in the city. I can barely remember joining a Boy Scout encampment during those days with a few Vietnamese teenagers as participants. The communication barrier was huge but it turned out just fine. Soon they started setting up their small businesses, trying their best to live a normal life in Palawan, far from their native land. It must have been tough for these "boat people", as they've come to be known, but they have proven their resilience as a people despite the situation. Towards the 1980's, they began to be repatriated to countries in North America like the US and Canada which opened their gates and accepted them. One by one, family by family, they began to leave Palawan and settled elsewhere for good. Others may have opted to return to Vietnam as the situation there have now improved.

One of the good things that the Vietnamese people left in Puerto Princesa City was their cuisine. Chao Long, a kind of rice noodles usually topped with fresh mongo sprouts, paired with french bread is a popular snack in the city and I think even in the whole province such that Chao Long restaurants can be found even in far-flung municipalities such as Brooke's Point, 192 kilometers south of the city.

Front facade of Pho' Saigon, Puerto Princesa City, Palawan. (Photo by LDocena)

Interior of Pho' Saigon, Puerto Princesa City, Palawan. (Photo by LDocena)

One Vietnamese restaurant that we recently visited is Pho' Saigon, located along the northbound national highway in San Manuel, Puerto Princesa City. Despite its austere facade and interiors, this place is visited even by Caucasian tourists in Puerto Princesa. The food was good and tasty, even though we only had sauteed shrimp with rice (tom ram), rice noodles with beef stew (pho bo kho), pork spring roll (cha gio heo), french bread with chicken (bahn mi ga), and buko shakes (sihn to dua).

Sauteed shrimp with rice, both abundant in Palawan. (Photo by LDocena)

Rice noodles with beef stew and french bread. (Photo by LDocena)

Travel always have its inherent benefits that includes the opportunity to try the various cuisines of a particular locality and this recent Vietnamese cuisine experience is certainly one such opportunity.

ISLAND HOPPING IN HONDA BAY, PUERTO PRINCESA CITY, PALAWAN

When queuing at the airport check-in counters in Manila to take my flight home to Puerto Princesa City in Palawan, one of the things that I instinctively do is to look for friends who might be on the same flight I'm taking (well..this is especially so when I've got lots of bags sitting on my pushcart..LOL) This would seem mundane to some but the prospect of seeing a familiar face in the line never fails to excite me. The opportunity to re-connect with old friends even for just a brief moment is always a nice, happy occasion. And as I scan the vicinity for friends another group of passengers almost always get my attention--the vacationers especially those of the younger set.

   

Sta. Lourdes Pier, Puerto Princesa City, Palawan (Photo by LDocena)

You can't miss them; they're all geared up for vacation. Their attire gives them away--flip-flops, board shorts, sunglasses, the fanciest dSLR's and the latest iteration of the Ipod. I can almost hear their excitement to get on board the plane, land at the Puerto Princesa International Airport and hit the beach. Pronto..

Pandan Island, Honda Bay, Palawan (Photo by LDocena)

Fortunately, as if by a happy coincidence, many of the beaches that Puerto Princesa City has to offer are located very near the city. There are small islands and sandbars scattered around  Honda Bay, and the jump-off point to the bay is the Sta. Lourdes Pier, located just 20 to 30 minutes drive from the city center. This makes it so easy for visitors to visit an island, swim or snorkel, hop on to the next one, swim some more, move on to the next island until one is completely satisfied, limbs drooping with exhaustion. Thus, island hopping at Honda Bay has become an attraction in Palawan that never fails to delight visitors.

There are plenty of islands in Honda Bay but the more prominent ones are Pandan Island; then there's  Starfish Island, named so because there are plenty of starfish on it. Then there's Bat Island, again, named after its nocturnal inhabitants. Snake Island don't have snakes, I hope, but it  was named so because it resembles a snake slithering on the water when viewed from the air. The luxury resort Dos Palmas is also located at Honda Bay and will be the subject of a future post.

When we were planning our island hopping trip to Honda Bay we were tipped off by the Moana Hotel staff to bring our own food along. So, early in the morning the next day we rented our snorkels at the hotel, went to the market and hauled some fresh fish and veggies, fruits, bread and our drinks and headed to Sta. Lourdes. The boat was rented for about P700 and can carry a maximum if six persons. First stop was the Pambato Reef, a coral reef so popular around Honda Bay. The corals were so stunning that it hardly mattered to me that I was using a rented snorkel! I just wished it was previously worn by a beautiful blonde tourist before I got it.

Beach on Starfish Island, Honda Bay, Palawan (Photo by LDocena)

We then went to Starfish Island for a swim. The beach was lovely, the sand was not so fine but it was beautiful nonetheless. True to its name,  there was plenty of starfish around.

Starfish Island, Honda Bay, Palawan (Photo by LDocena)

Shed on Starfish Island, Honda Bay, Palawan (Photo by LDocena)

An old structure on Starfish Island, Honda Bay, Palawan (Photo by LDocena)

Next destination was Snake Island as it was about noontime now, and we have yet to cook our food. It was a pleasant surprise to know that one of our companions was an excellent cook. There is a mini store at the island that  sell some foodstuffs and some necessities. At the back is the kitchen that we used for cooking our food on borrowed utensils, all for a small fee.

The beach on Snake Island, Honda Bay, Palawan (Photo by LDocena)

Sheds for eating lunch on Snake Island, Honda Bay, Palawan (Photo by LDocena)

Boat on Snake Island with Palawan mainland in the background. (Photo by LDocena)

After the sumptuous lunch it was time to hit the beach. The water was so clear and refreshing. One attraction at Snake Island is "fish feeding" and we took bread and started feeding the fish which was now so plentiful. It was truly a unique experience. I decided to up the fun by biting the bread and instead of just holding them by hand. As I submerged my head, hundreds of fish would gang up on my lips. Totally cool experience..

Fish feeding on Snake Island, Honda Bay, Palawan (Photo by LDocena)

Fish feeding with the mouth on Snake Island (Photo by LDocena)

Lady vendor on Snake Island, Honda Bay, Palawan (Photo by LDocena)

At about 4 o'clock in the afternoon we started packing for our trip back to the mainland.

PALAWAN WILDLIFE RESCUE AND CONSERVATION CENTER, PUERTO PRINCESA CITY

About 12 kilometers along the southbound national highway lies the Palawan Wildlife Rescue and Conservation Center, more popularly known by its former name, the Crocodile Farm. It started its operation in the late 80's as a joint venture by the Philippine and Japanese governments to breed the Palawan crocodile and harvest them later for their meat and skin.  It can be reached by tricycle which visitors may hire from the city as this is not part of their usual route. Multicabs, on the other hand, ply a regular route from the city proper to Barangay Irawan, where the crocodile farm is located.

Palawan's Crocodile Farm and Nature Park marker (Photo by LDocena)

We visited the Crocodile Farm on a hurried tour as we passed by the place on our way to Iwahig Prison and Penal Farm located about 8 kilometers further down the road. After alighting from our vehicle, paying the entrance fees (about P30 per person), and a short wait we were ushered into the building. Displayed at the lobby is the sketetal remains of a humongous crocodile encased in glass, about 17 feet long, while its preserved skin hangs on the wall beside the enclosure. This is the first time I saw this crocodile again after seeing  it still alive in Rio Tuba, Bataraza, Palawan in the 1990's shortly after it was caught. I was then working at the Rio Tuba Nickel Mining Corporation, a big mining firm operating in the southern part of Palawan,  when this crocodile was trapped and captured at the Rio Tuba river by Crocodile Farm personnel after killing a man named Delfin Siplan, an indigenous person belonging to the Palaw'an Tribe. The crocodile was displayed briefly in front of the company gymnasium before being hauled to this place. Sure, it was scary, it filled the bed of an elf truck! Asked how did they do it, the captors revealed their secret:  if you can cover a crocodile's eyes, she's good as dead. Sometime later we heard the news that the crocodile had died.

The biggest crocodile captured in Palawan. (Photo by LDocena)

We then went to a building where they keep hundreds of small crocodiles, all sorted according to their sizes and ages. They are kept in tubs and they are fed with fish. Their claws created so much noise as they trampled on each other at the sight of the people joining our tour group.

Palawan crocodiles bred in captivity placed in tubs. (Photo by LDocena)

We then went out of the building to the area where the larger, more mature crocodiles are kept. There was a steel bridge above the concrete enclosures giving a good view of the crocodiles below, some lying idly on ponds while the others lay on the concrete pavement.

Adult Palawan crocodiles lying idly in the afternoon drizzle. (Photo by LDocena)

Motionless, a lone Palawan crocodile can hardly be seen in the pond. (Photo by LDocena)

There was a slight drizzle when we came to the mini nature park where different animals are being kept in their respective enclosures. Many of these animals are endemic to the province of Palawan. There was a Palawan Bearcat which I also was in Calauit Wildlife Reserve a few years back, some birds, a python, monitor lizards, ostriches, wild boars, and many others.

The Palawan Bearcat "Binturong" showing its climbing prowess. (Photo by LDocena)

Rare occurrence: an ostrich in Palawan. (Photo by LDocena)

We missed the opportunity to have have a photo session with a small crocodile. It would have been a thrill.

BAYBAY, PUERTO PRINCESA CITY, PALAWAN

Not about to be left behind, the city of Puerto Princesa also came up with its own version of the famous "Baywalk" along Roxas Boulevard in Manila. Located only a few blocks away from the Immaculate Conception Cathedral and Plaza Cuartel, "Baybay", as the place is locally known,  is fast becoming a favorite destination among the city residents as well as from the whole Palawan province especially in the afternoon when the sun begins to set, staying there late into the night. The breeze coming from the Puerto Princesa Bay is so relaxing and so is the view of the surrounding the bay area especially during sunsets. This place is now a choice venue for city activities and the last time I was there, a local beauty pageant was about to start when I left. It is beside the city pier and the view of the boats at anchor as well as those offshore only adds to the drama. 

"Baybay" is Palawan's version of the "Baywalk" in Manila.  (Photo by LDocena)

                                                     

 A Palawan-bound vessel  can be seen  in the background.  (Photo by LDocena)

Dive boats such as these regularly visit Palawan's prime dive spots. (Photo by LDocena)

During the day the baywalk is near empty except for utility crews tending to the plants. Shade is somewhat limited and the concrete pavement heats up. Everything changes though as the sun begins to set on the horizon. Slowly the place starts to fill up with people trying to get a glimpse of the sunset and enjoy the balmy air coming in from the bay.

                                        

In the afternoon the lamp posts begin to flicker to life. (Photo by LDocena)

People starts to arrive at the baywalk to enjoy Palawan's sunsets. (Photo by LDocena)

People from all walks of life tend to come to this place to enjoy each others company and perhaps to shake off some stress at the end of a long day. Family and peer group picnics are  frequent  especially during weekends. Food stalls are present but people usually bring along some food too.

Cargo vessels that carry the goods to Palawan. (Photo by LDocena)

Palawan residents gather at the seawall, enjoying the sunset. (Photo by LDocena)

Lamp posts all fired up for the evening at Palawan's baywalk. (Photo by LDocena)

PLAZA CUARTEL, PUERTO PRINCESA CITY, PALAWAN

Another attraction in Puerto Princesa City is the Plaza Cuartel, located near the front entrance of the Immaculate Conception Cathedral. This used to be a military installation that was converted into a small park and is situated in an area of  the city that is away from the busy commercial district. The serene surroundings of the plaza hides its turbulent past, this place being the site where 143 American soldiers, prisoners-of-war at that time,  were burned to death by their Japanese captors on December 14, 1944 during the height of the Second World War. The archway-entrance into the plaza, battered and dilapidated, stands as a reminder of the events that took place in the area many years ago.

The arch at the entrance of the Plaza Cuartel, one of the historical sites of Palawan.
(Photo by LDocena)

The historical marker at the arch tells the story of what transpired 
in this part of Palawan 67 years ago . (Photo by LDocena)

Inside the plaza is a Memorial Marker in honor of the 143 soldiers who perished on that fateful night of December 1944. Some of the men survived the ordeal by swimming towards Iwahig.

Beside the memorial marker is a Commemorative Monument installed by artist Don Schloat, himself a former WWII prisoner-of-war in Palawan. It was his dream to be able to install the marker and that dream became a reality on September 26, 2009 when the marker was finally installed at the plaza with the support of Puerto Princesa  City mayor Edward Hagedorn. On it is his sculpture of a burning man in agony..a grim picture showing how ugly wars can be.

The Memorial Marker for the 143 POW's who perished 
in this part of Palawan 67 years ago . (Photo by LDocena)

The Commemorative Marker installed by Don Schloat, 
artist and one of those POW's. (Photo by LDocena)

The sculpture on top of the Commemorative Marker. 
(Photo by LDocena)